Wig Application

There are various methods of wig application that will vary depending on your client's hairstyle and type, and the mass and structure of the wig. Different applications include:

·      Hair wrap

Used for smooth, flat wigs.

This is created by jelling and wetting hair flat around the head and securing.

·      Flat plaits

Smooth wigs with less movement involved.

·      Flat pincurls

For voluminous wigs, very secure.

·      Inverted chunky plaits

Creates a very secure fit and is for large sculpted wigs.

The plaits create a strong anchor for the wig.

To prepare for a wig application, observe the wig and consider the security needed and the height/weight of the wig. Create a hair chart for the wig preparation, as some areas may need different techniques.

Always use a stocking cap to suit the root colour of the wig.

Applying a flat wig:

Equipment:

·      Brush

·      Pintail comb

·      Clips

·      Grips

·      Water spray

·      Wiggly pins

·      Fine wig pins

·      Geisha pins

·      Fake hair (depending on hair type)

·      Wig stocking

·      Hair spray

·      Bristle brush

·      Wig

Directions:

·      Brush hair and create neat sections according to parting on the wig.

·      Section the front of the hair (crown to ears) away from the back section.

·      Starting with the back section, wrap small sections of hair round the head to create the effect of large pin curls. Ensure the hair is as flat as possible.

·      Spay the hair with water to help the hair become more compact and controllable.

·      Once all the hair has been secured into place with pins using this technique, bring the front hair away from the face.

·      In sections pull the hair back, ensuring the hairline is fully exposed.

·      Using a small bristled brush, spray hairspray onto the bristles and brush the stray hairs off the hairline all the way around the head.

·      Apply wig stocking, making sure the hairline is fully exposed.

·      Use the pintail to tuck in any loose wispy hairs.

·      Secure the stocking to the hair base using pins (without bobbled ends) through the cap, direction of pins as shown in the diagram below.

·      Remove any excess pins poking through the stocking.

·      Pin down any excess stocking to the head.

·      Apply the wig to the head, ensuring the wig’s front hair line is further forward than the natural hairline.

·      Pull back and position the wig.

·      Secure the wig using two anchor points, making sure that the hair has been moved out of the way first.

·      Use finer pins to secure the wig around the outer edges.

Applying a wig onto thick textured hair, using the hairline:

Equipment:

·      Brush

·      Pintail comb

·      Clips

·      Grips

·      Wiggly pins

·      Fine wig pins

·      Geisha pins

·      Fake hair (depending on hair type)

·      Wig stocking

·      Hair spray

·      Bristle brush

·      Wig

Directions:

·      Section the hair, leaving out the hairline all the way around the head.

·      Secure the separated hairline using rough pincurls, so the hair doesn’t get in the way.

·      Using the inner section of hair, create an inverted (dutch) plait, and plait in a circle. Start from the outside and work towards the centre. If the model has fine hair, plait in fake hair to create a stronger base.

·      Secure remaining plait in the continued direction.

·      Fit the wig stocking over the plaited area and secure with pins (as shown before).

·      Secure the wig onto the prepared section.

·      Secure using the same technique as above.

·      Incorporate the hairline.

Heated Rollers

Equipment:

·      Heated rollers

·      Pintail comb

·      Brush

·      Clips

Directions:

·      Turn on the heated rollers and wait until they have reached the desired temperature.

·      Brush through the hair, so that it is smooth and manageable.

·      Section the hair and create the desired parting.

·      Select a clean section of hair, no wider than the roller, starting from the bottom of the hair.

·      Comb through section and apply the roller to the tip of the hair.

·      Roll the roller towards the root of the hair, ensuring that all the hair is on the roller and kept taught until at the base of the root.

·      Secure the roller with the large clip.

·      Continue this process working upwards.

·      Once the hair has cooled, release the rollers and style as desired.

18th Century Hair: First Designs

For my ‘Art Story’, I will be using 18^th Century hair as my inspiration. What I particularly like about this era is the strong influence Marie Antoinette had on hair culture and how she influenced so many other women, by creating their hair into a masterpiece to reflect the mood of the wearer. Also, as we will be creating multiple variations in extremity, I am fascinated by the downfall of Marie Antoinette’s reign and how this was translated in hair, with her hair being a significance of her beheading. With the photoshoots, I would like to create a similar story, showing the symbolism of how larger and more extreme hair represented power and status.

Here are some of my first designs, which are very influenced by the historical 18th Century styles:

I then decided to bring in a few contemporary elements:

Using the bright and feminine colours in the experimental fringe class with the flowers and jewels, it has inspired me to incorporate this detail into my designs:

Advance Plaiting Workshop

Today's workshop this weekend, we looked into different plaiting techniques. They are simple, but very effective, and it is likely that I will use them in future designs. 

Here are some images of the work completed today:

18th Century Hair Inspiration:

WILDFOX AW14 Lookbook 'Let me eat cake'

After researching different hairstyles of this period and looking at contemporary work by current hair designer's, I came across this fabulous work in WILDFOX's AW2014 lookbook, 'Let me eat cake', for their latest eyewear collection. I instantly fell in love with their concept. With the inspiration from my fringe work with the colours and flowers, this highly feminine and delicate styling really caught my eye. I particularly enjoy the historical elements of shape, texture and powdered colours. I originally wanted to use these elements in my designing, but also keeping the contemporary twist. The pastel colour palette and patterns that have been used for this shoot have particularly inspired me to experiment with a more modern palette, as pastel hair is very much something that has been on trend recently. The use of flowers, feathers and decorative items that have be beautifully positioned over the hairstyle are very flattering, and I am so inspired by these romantic looks.

Wildfox, Fit For a Queen 'Let me eat cake', Viewed 21.10.14, Available at: http://www.wildfox.com/lookbooks/fit-for-a-queen-sun-fall-2014/

Contemporary/Eccentric Inspiration:

Shanalogic, Avant-Garde Hair Inspiration, viewed 21.10.14 [online image] Available at: http://www.shanalogic.com/wordpress/avante-garde-hair-inspiration/

Shanalogic, Avant-Garde Hair Inspiration, viewed 21.10.14 [online image] Available at: http://www.shanalogic.com/wordpress/avante-garde-hair-inspiration/

Shanalogic, Avant-Garde Hair Inspiration, viewed 21.10.14 [online image] Available at: http://www.shanalogic.com/wordpress/avante-garde-hair-inspiration/

Shanalogic, Avant-Garde Hair Inspiration, viewed 21.10.14 [online image] Available at: http://www.shanalogic.com/wordpress/avante-garde-hair-inspiration/

Rollering Wigs

Equipment:

·      Wig block

·      Wig

·      Galloon ribbon

·      Postiche pins

·      Large pins

·      T-pins

·      Paddle brush

·      Pintail comb

·      Rollers

·      Water spray

·      Wig oven

Directions:

·      Make sure the wig has been securely blocked using pins and galloon ribbon.

·      Gentle brush through the hair, using a paddle brush.

·      Make sure the lace all around the wig is secure with t-pins so that the lace doesn’t stretch.

·      Section the hair cleanly into appropriate sections suited to the size of the rollers.

·      Comb through the section and wet the hair with spray, depending on what suits your ability.

·      Comb the hair out directly from the root and ensure that the hair is taught.

·      Add the roller to the tip of the hair and roll towards the root.

·      Use the pintail comb to keep the hair neat in the roller.

·      Once at the root, make sure the hair isnt slack in any areas.

·      Secure the roller to the head with a large pin or t-pin.

·      Continue this process until the desired area of hair has been complete.

·      Before the wig is put into the wig oven, make sure any loose hair is secured.

·      Put wig and block into the wig oven.

·      Once hair has been set in the wig oven, remove the block and wig and allow to cool before removing rollers.

I took out the rollers, and this was the outcome:

Out of these curls and lift created by the rollers, I decided to create a 1920's inspired style: