Wig Application

There are various methods of wig application that will vary depending on your client's hairstyle and type, and the mass and structure of the wig. Different applications include:

·      Hair wrap

Used for smooth, flat wigs.

This is created by jelling and wetting hair flat around the head and securing.

·      Flat plaits

Smooth wigs with less movement involved.

·      Flat pincurls

For voluminous wigs, very secure.

·      Inverted chunky plaits

Creates a very secure fit and is for large sculpted wigs.

The plaits create a strong anchor for the wig.

To prepare for a wig application, observe the wig and consider the security needed and the height/weight of the wig. Create a hair chart for the wig preparation, as some areas may need different techniques.

Always use a stocking cap to suit the root colour of the wig.

Applying a flat wig:

Equipment:

·      Brush

·      Pintail comb

·      Clips

·      Grips

·      Water spray

·      Wiggly pins

·      Fine wig pins

·      Geisha pins

·      Fake hair (depending on hair type)

·      Wig stocking

·      Hair spray

·      Bristle brush

·      Wig

Directions:

·      Brush hair and create neat sections according to parting on the wig.

·      Section the front of the hair (crown to ears) away from the back section.

·      Starting with the back section, wrap small sections of hair round the head to create the effect of large pin curls. Ensure the hair is as flat as possible.

·      Spay the hair with water to help the hair become more compact and controllable.

·      Once all the hair has been secured into place with pins using this technique, bring the front hair away from the face.

·      In sections pull the hair back, ensuring the hairline is fully exposed.

·      Using a small bristled brush, spray hairspray onto the bristles and brush the stray hairs off the hairline all the way around the head.

·      Apply wig stocking, making sure the hairline is fully exposed.

·      Use the pintail to tuck in any loose wispy hairs.

·      Secure the stocking to the hair base using pins (without bobbled ends) through the cap, direction of pins as shown in the diagram below.

·      Remove any excess pins poking through the stocking.

·      Pin down any excess stocking to the head.

·      Apply the wig to the head, ensuring the wig’s front hair line is further forward than the natural hairline.

·      Pull back and position the wig.

·      Secure the wig using two anchor points, making sure that the hair has been moved out of the way first.

·      Use finer pins to secure the wig around the outer edges.

Applying a wig onto thick textured hair, using the hairline:

Equipment:

·      Brush

·      Pintail comb

·      Clips

·      Grips

·      Wiggly pins

·      Fine wig pins

·      Geisha pins

·      Fake hair (depending on hair type)

·      Wig stocking

·      Hair spray

·      Bristle brush

·      Wig

Directions:

·      Section the hair, leaving out the hairline all the way around the head.

·      Secure the separated hairline using rough pincurls, so the hair doesn’t get in the way.

·      Using the inner section of hair, create an inverted (dutch) plait, and plait in a circle. Start from the outside and work towards the centre. If the model has fine hair, plait in fake hair to create a stronger base.

·      Secure remaining plait in the continued direction.

·      Fit the wig stocking over the plaited area and secure with pins (as shown before).

·      Secure the wig onto the prepared section.

·      Secure using the same technique as above.

·      Incorporate the hairline.